By
Trevor Kugler
Night fishing is a very enjoyable type of fishing. Whether you fish from a boat or from the shore there is some equipment that is integral to an enjoyable trip, especially at night. In many cases fish will bite quite well at night, so if you've never tried night fishing, it may be time to give it a shot. Just make sure that you remember these five items.
1) A lantern. This may sound overly simplistic, but remembering your lantern is none the less important. And if it's a propane lantern, make sure that you have an extra propane tank with you.
2) A flashlight. Although you are going to have a lantern with you for light, a flashlight is a good idea if you want to move around at all. This way you won't have to move the lantern every time you are in need of light.
3) Liquid refreshments. Night fishing is usually done while you're sitting on the bank or anchored in a boat. For some reason this makes for a thirsty angler. It more than likely has to do with the "down time", waiting for a fish to bite.
4) Mosquito incense. The mosquitoes can become pretty bad when night fishing, especially in the summer right after the sun goes down. Lighting mosquito incense can make the situation much more tolerable. There are few things worse on this planet than getting swarmed by mosquitoes and having absolutely no recourse.
5) Organize you tackle box before you go. There are few things worse than having to dig through your tackle box for something you need when it's the middle of the night. This one will save you a ton of heartache.
These five things, although they seem overly simplistic, will make for a much better night fishing experience. The bottom line is that when it's the middle of the night and you have fish on your brain, these are the last five things that you want to be worrying about.
Trevor Kugler - Co-founder of JRWfishing.com Trevor has more than 20 years of fishing experience, and now specializes in ultralight trout fishing.
http://www.jrwfishing.com/signup.html - sign up for the best free fishing Ezine on the net and get a FREE fishing report worth $10!!!
Actually make money online. Find out how for FREE! - http://www.yourmoneyconnection.com
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Saturday, December 30, 2006
Friday, December 29, 2006
Fishing For The Fascinating Walleye
By Deon Plessis
Walleye fishing has become increasingly popular in recent years and presents a whole series of added challenges to the angler. Walleyes are fascinating fish and very complex as a species. They are fresh water fish, found predominantly in Canada and the Northern United States.
There are mainly two types of Walleyes, the Yellow Walleye and the Blue Walleye and as the names imply is only a difference in color, although very subtle. In some parts they are being referred to as the Yellow Pike or Pickerel, although this is technically incorrect as they are part of a different family of fish altogether.
Walleyes as a species has been artificially propagated for over a century and has been planted on top of existing populations or introduced into waters naturally devoid of the species, sometimes reducing the overall genetic distinctiveness of populations. Genetically, walleyes show a fair amount of variation across watersheds. In general, fish within a watershed are quite similar and are genetically distinct from those of nearby watersheds.
The walleye is often considered to have the best tasting flesh of any freshwater fish, and, consequently, is fished recreationally and commercially. Because of its nocturnal feeding habits, it is most easily caught at night using live minnows or lures that mimic small fishes. This should be of special interest to the more serious angler, looking for an opportunity to get out there at night when the walleye is most active. Night fishing has become increasingly popular because of the added challenge it presents to the angler. It can be very dangerous though and care should be taken, especially if you are inexperienced.
Like a cat, the walleye fish's eye have a very distinct reflective glow at night. This unique feature allows them to see well in relatively low lighting levels - making them effective as nocturnal feeders. They are also able to see very well in murky and more turbulent waters, giving them the edge over their prey. When fishing for walleyes, finding these water conditions can be a good indication of the presence of walleyes.
Apart from their unique eyes, the Walleye is predominantly olive and gold in colour with the dorsal side of a being more olive, grading into a golden hue on the flanks. This golden olive pattern is broken up by five darker saddles that extend to the upper sides of the fish. These beautiful colors fade to white on the belly. The mouth of a walleye is large and is armed with many sharp teeth. The first dorsal and anal fins are spinous as is the operculum. Walleyes are often confused with Saugers and they actually look very alike. The main difference however, is the white coloration on the lower lobe of the tail. Many anglers catch Saugers and claim their catch to be a Walleye without even knowing the difference.
Although some populations of Walleye spawn on sand and vegetation, they generally require fairly clean waters and are found most often in deep mesotrophic lakes and moderate- to low-gradient rivers. This is why Canada offers such a perfect location for the Walleye to flourish. The walleye is considered a "cool water" species. Adults migrate to tributary streams in late winter or early spring to lay eggs over gravel and rock, although there are open water reef or shoal spawning strains as well. This offers an added opportunity for fishing the Walleye and an alternative to fishing for them at night and on lakes.
Both juvenile and adult walleyes eat fish almost exclusively, frequently yellow perch or ciscoes, moving onto bars and shoals at night to feed. This tends to be the best bait although the locals might have some better ideas (as they always do).
One of the best lakes for catching walleyes is Mille Lacs in central Minnesota. Several lakes in Canada have large populations of Walleye and any good guide will be able to show you the best spots. Walleyes are fascinating fish and a great fish to fish for.
The article is published with the permission of Fishing Canada Alaska.Com. For more up to date information and tips on Fishing in Canada and Alaska, please feel free to visit http://fishingalaskacanada.com
Monday, December 25, 2006
Make Your Own Homemade Carp Fishing Bait - Choosing Cool Ingredients
'Homemade' is a funny word as it can imply 'simple or basic', but when applied to making carp or catfish bait, the subject certainly deserves far more explanation for optimum results and catches!
Bait really has a single end function; to get the fishing hook into the carp’s mouth, so giving the opportunity for it to be hooked! To achieve this, the bait needs either:
• To emit a recognizable carp food signal, or stimulate carp curiosity.
• Be representative of, or a mimic of a natural food source.
Carp are curious and will examine any new potential food item they come across. Whether paste / dough or boilies, it needs to be resilient enough to be put on the hook or ‘hair’, for it to withstand the fishes’ attention and enter the mouth.
‘Boilie’ baits are the more scientifically proven kind that have evolved from the days of the ‘Specials’ baits. These were often based on ground - up dog, cat, fish foods and farm animal foods in pellet, biscuit and tinned form. They were bound together with eggs, and fished as pastes. In the 1950 to the early 1970’s these were often fished ‘free lined’ with big hooks, with no weight, and individual baits could be the size of an orange, in order to deter bait-whittling smaller fish!
Other common ‘kitchen’ type ingredients were also incorporated to enhance paste effectiveness like minced tinned fish, curry powder, bottled condiment sources, yeast powders, milk powders, grated cheese, salt and pepper, herbs, yeast extract, cake baking flavours, whole - wheat flour, corn flour, bird foods, ground fish meal pellets, and animal / pet food pellets, beans, peas, seeds, and many food oils have been used; many of which have proved themselves. Many, in original or extract form, are still used in baits today.
Baits were originally boiled to allow them to be thrown much further out into the water, as carp moved out in response to increased angling pressure and tackle improvements. The fact that nearly every other fish that swims with carp can eat boilies, has shown that the ‘hard skinned boilie idea didn’t really work. In fact many species, like big roach, tench, bream, catfish etc, seem to use boilies as part of their staple diets and their improved growth rates can attest to this fact.
The ideal ‘average’ size established for boilies used to be a recommended 15 millimeters in diameter, although today highly pressured waters often see better results on much smaller sizes and some do very well on even 35 millimeter ones as have done in the UK and France.
If you were an average carp angler, fishing in around 1980 in the UK, then you were most likely still experimenting with many of these ingredients, to give you an ‘edge’ over those pesky carp! However, there were an advanced minority, who kept the latest bait and rig secret developments private among themselves, and pockets of carp anglers developed different edges and formulas which could totally out - fish the old ‘specials’.
This was because they were based upon, and maximized, scientifically proven data, on the carp dietary preference mechanism! Understanding the scientifically proven carp data, on the carp’s dietary preference mechanism and baits designed on this basis, resulted in more highly nutritionally balanced baits. So giving carp the maximum energy and dietary requirements, for the least cost in effort!
The real missing ingredient, for very many carp anglers, even today, is in understanding why a carp eats any of these carp boilie foods at all! And why carp can actually prefer some baits to the exclusion of all the rest!
This is an important area I feel, that has been neglected, leaving many modern carp anglers with less understanding of the baits available to him and how best to choose how and when to use them, because this can be a very important ‘edge’ in itself! Also I feel it is as important to really understand why your shop-bought bait catches and doesn’t catch in different circumstances, seasonal and weather conditions, and different at types of waters.
Of course it is not vital to know, or understand these things to catch carp. But only the most exceptional outstanding anglers catch big carp consistently, using a normal number of fishing hours to achieve this. Compared to the ‘average’ majority, who are usually those having taken up carp fishing in the last 5 to 15 years or so and often to struggle to maintain big fish catches consistency all year round unlike much more experienced and ‘bait wise’ anglers.
So I feel it is important to help explain how to become more satisfied and consistent in your carp fishing, because these days it can be a large sacrifice, both in time and money, to pursue this sport. I believe, especially newer carp anglers, need impartial guidance when it comes to the importance of bait (often a complete afterthought!), when frequently thousands of pounds have been spent on carp fishing tackle!
An introduction to the boilie ingredients: Boilies are usually made using dry mixture ingredients of either 500 grammes or 1 pound. Using a combination of natural and synthetic materials, bait may be bound together usually with eggs, to form dough balls or shapes. The most effective size and dimensions vary depending upon your fishing situation, and could be 8 to 30 millimeters plus. (Never underestimate how fish preferences alter over time and even at different times during a session!)
It pays to make different sizes, shapes, and densities boilies: this helps take away a ‘danger’ reference point, i.e., it stops the fish recognizing it and fools the carp into eating the hook bait with the hook (which is the point, isn’t it?!)
Boilies have conventionally been and are often labeled in terms of the food group which forms the majority percentage of the bait, i.e.:
Milk protein (whole milk and it’s derivatives)
Carrier carbohydrate (soya flour / semolina)
Bird foods (seed mixes, rearing foods and extracts, etc)
Fishmeal (ground trout pellets, oily fish meals, crustacean meals, seafood extracts, etc)
Meat meals (beef, poultry, pork flakes, hydrolyzed feather meal, etc)
And so on…
Of course, these labels are misleading to some folks these days because baits have become more complex. The benefits of mixing the nutrients of different food groups in the same bait mix, means there may be no single food group in any given bait!
So how do you choose which ingredients to use, which ratios of these to use and why? The first step is commonly practicality; can you put these things together into a dough or paste, to produce a boilie mix that will bind together and roll well? To produce a boilie from various ingredients without instructions on ratios of each ingredient takes some preliminary testing. So it is wise to start by using one large hen’s egg (or similar), mixed with a small amount of any liquid ingredients, to confirm that your test dry ingredients when mixed actually bind and roll well into balls to make boiled baits. If not, add more egg, a small amount of vegetable oil or ‘binding material’.
Ideally start by putting the carp’s dietary needs first when making bait, and begin with the bulk ‘whole protein food’ content of ingredients at 25 % to 50 % of your preliminary 100 % dry mixture. Such examples used could be combinations of some of the following: caseins, lactalbumin, fish meals, meat meals, whey protein.
Usually you will require a binding material to hold the protein food together in the bait. This may require using dry binding ingredients like semolina, wheat gluten, wheat flour, soya flour etc for up to 50 % of the mix, necessary for many types of coarse bird food meals, shellfish meals, meat and fish meals. Different bait materials will alter this approximate ratio, but use the ratio that rolls first! and increase the protein content from there (Using eggs / egg powder to bind your bait, adds a great nutritional added profile as a complete protein food.)
Examples of binders:
Hen’s eggs
Egg powder
Whey gel
Bread crumbs
Full fat ‘yellow’ semolina
Maize meal
Corn starch
Potato starch
White ground rice flour
Wheat flour
Wheat gluten
Potato gluten
Full fat soya flour
Ground seeds
Ground ‘Sluis CLO’
Ground ‘EMP’
Ground ‘CeDe’
Ground ‘Red band’ pigeon seed mix
Beef gelatin based binding products
Some of the most effective attraction of your bait comes from the water soluble fraction of particular ingredients used. Ingredients with this characteristic content could constitute 10 % up to 30 % of the mix. Making a resilient practical boilie mix may require the addition or reduction of only one ingredient. Some of the best baits you will ever discover are made by this trial and error process. The solubility of ingredients is especially recommended if an ingredient has high protein value, such as sodium and calcium caseinates, calf milk replacers, whole milk powder, yeast powder, hydrolyzed fish and shellfish proteins etc...
Some are used at much lower levels, e.g. 0.2 % to 6 % ; e.g., hydrolyzed fish protein, hydrolyzed spirulina extract, squid extract, anchovy extract, green crab / lobster / scallop / shrimp / oyster / baby clam extracts, green lip mussel extract etc. These are also effective as most are extremely quickly and efficiently digested with immediate benefits that the carp can feel.
I prefer to fresh freeze baits, or ‘air dry’ them naturally, or preserve them in a flavour / amino acid / supplement compound, rather than using a chemical preservative in the bait like ascorbic acid.
Carp require oils (essential fatty acids) but only in small amounts e.g., up to 5 % of your total dry mix. Oily fish meals and shellfish meals are already rich in these, as are flax seed, hemp seed, sesame seeds, salmon oil, cod liver oil, crustacean oil, etc. To meet minimum carp dietary requirements try adding perhaps around 1 milliliter to 3 milliliters of a good quality nutritional oil per egg, (maximum,) depending on oil level in the dry mix.
At times of year when water temperatures drop below 55 Fahrenheit / 13 Degrees Celsius, it’s sensible to drop the oil levels used or use emulsified oil. It also pays to reduce some of your ‘whole protein food’ content and substitute it with e.g., 3 ounces of wheat germ; this is a proven method of improving the biological conversion of your bait inside the carp by making your bait more ‘carp digestible’
Carp love to crunch food and in doing so send out all kinds of feeding signals to other carp, allowing attractive food particles to pass out of the gills.
Nutritional ingredients can be used for this effect, e.g. bird foods – ‘Robin Red’, ‘Red Factor’,‘Nectarblend’, Ground ‘Red Band’ pigeon food, prepared ground mixed nuts and seeds; prepared tiger nuts and hempseed, millet, egg - biscuit myna - bird rearing food, niger seeds, ‘RRR’, ground birdseeds ‘Ce De’, ‘PTX’, ground insects, dried larvae, coarse kelp meal etc.
Also used are crushed oyster shell and eggshell. These also allow bait to release attractors faster, putting more out to attract carp quicker and more effectively, especially in lower water temperatures. They also help the fish to eat more bait by helping them pass it through their systems faster.
Test each individually because their properties vary. Use, e.g., 0.5 ounces per pound for shell through to e.g., 2 ounces per pound of course kelp meal, to e.g., 3 ounces per pound of ‘Robin Red’, ground birdseed e.g., 6 ounces per pound, up to 8 ounces per pound of ‘Nectar Blend’.
Here are some examples of recognized ‘nutritional’ bird food ingredients:
‘PTX’
‘Robin Red’
‘Red Factor’
‘Nectar Blend’
‘RRR’ Spanish peppers
‘Prosecto Insectivorous’
‘Sluis’ CLO
‘Sluis’Universal
‘Sluis’ Mynhah bird food
‘CeDe’
‘EMP’
‘Red Venom’ carophyll red liquid pigment attractor (http:/www.ccmoore.com)
Other ingredients are used to change resilience, texture, attractor leak-off, e.g., milk powders, whole milk, ‘Vitamealo’ at, e.g., 4 ounces per pound), or in a very soluble bait to bind it ‘tighter’ e.g., whey gel at 3 ounces per pound, or make it harder, e.g. blood powder at e.g. 4 ounces per pound, egg albumin at e.g., 2 ounces per pound, whole egg powder at, e.g., 3 ounces per pound, or whey gel, e.g., 1 ounce per pound.
To avoid silt / to make baits more buoyant, include ingredients like sodium caseinate, e.g. 5 ounces per pound, or shrimp meal, e.g. 3 ounces per pound or krill meal at e.g., 3 ounces per pound.
Vitamins and minerals are great attractors too, being essential for carp health and growth. Many of the above extracts supply these, but they leach out of bait very fast. Adding black strap molasses, betaine hydrochloride to the mix and as liquid soak really help.
Other ingredients can be added in very low levels to enhance your bait, or give it an ‘extra special attractive note’ e.g., 1 teaspoon per pound, of powdered taste enhancer, sea salt, or sweeteners like sodium saccharin and fishing company proprietary brands liquid and powdered sweeteners with no ‘chemical back taste’.
When you mix new ingredients together always test your mixture first. Try using one egg as a binder, to see if you have your ratios right for practical binding and rolling purposes. Always prepare your wet ingredients first and add dry ingredients to the wet ones gradually as you become accustomed to the ingredients you’re using, this part will become simple!
You can refine your bait’s ‘nutritional profile’ content, attraction properties and additional practical physical properties, as you become more familiar with getting a practical bait together; that works right for you and catches carp consistently! (Big ones preferably!You will soon find it’s very easy to make all kinds of baits, and your secret bait armory will fill you with confidence and your photograph albums with big carp!
By Tim Richardson N.D.C.H. The ‘thinking man’s fishing author’ and bait guru.
Bait really has a single end function; to get the fishing hook into the carp’s mouth, so giving the opportunity for it to be hooked! To achieve this, the bait needs either:
• To emit a recognizable carp food signal, or stimulate carp curiosity.
• Be representative of, or a mimic of a natural food source.
Carp are curious and will examine any new potential food item they come across. Whether paste / dough or boilies, it needs to be resilient enough to be put on the hook or ‘hair’, for it to withstand the fishes’ attention and enter the mouth.
‘Boilie’ baits are the more scientifically proven kind that have evolved from the days of the ‘Specials’ baits. These were often based on ground - up dog, cat, fish foods and farm animal foods in pellet, biscuit and tinned form. They were bound together with eggs, and fished as pastes. In the 1950 to the early 1970’s these were often fished ‘free lined’ with big hooks, with no weight, and individual baits could be the size of an orange, in order to deter bait-whittling smaller fish!
Other common ‘kitchen’ type ingredients were also incorporated to enhance paste effectiveness like minced tinned fish, curry powder, bottled condiment sources, yeast powders, milk powders, grated cheese, salt and pepper, herbs, yeast extract, cake baking flavours, whole - wheat flour, corn flour, bird foods, ground fish meal pellets, and animal / pet food pellets, beans, peas, seeds, and many food oils have been used; many of which have proved themselves. Many, in original or extract form, are still used in baits today.
Baits were originally boiled to allow them to be thrown much further out into the water, as carp moved out in response to increased angling pressure and tackle improvements. The fact that nearly every other fish that swims with carp can eat boilies, has shown that the ‘hard skinned boilie idea didn’t really work. In fact many species, like big roach, tench, bream, catfish etc, seem to use boilies as part of their staple diets and their improved growth rates can attest to this fact.
The ideal ‘average’ size established for boilies used to be a recommended 15 millimeters in diameter, although today highly pressured waters often see better results on much smaller sizes and some do very well on even 35 millimeter ones as have done in the UK and France.
If you were an average carp angler, fishing in around 1980 in the UK, then you were most likely still experimenting with many of these ingredients, to give you an ‘edge’ over those pesky carp! However, there were an advanced minority, who kept the latest bait and rig secret developments private among themselves, and pockets of carp anglers developed different edges and formulas which could totally out - fish the old ‘specials’.
This was because they were based upon, and maximized, scientifically proven data, on the carp dietary preference mechanism! Understanding the scientifically proven carp data, on the carp’s dietary preference mechanism and baits designed on this basis, resulted in more highly nutritionally balanced baits. So giving carp the maximum energy and dietary requirements, for the least cost in effort!
The real missing ingredient, for very many carp anglers, even today, is in understanding why a carp eats any of these carp boilie foods at all! And why carp can actually prefer some baits to the exclusion of all the rest!
This is an important area I feel, that has been neglected, leaving many modern carp anglers with less understanding of the baits available to him and how best to choose how and when to use them, because this can be a very important ‘edge’ in itself! Also I feel it is as important to really understand why your shop-bought bait catches and doesn’t catch in different circumstances, seasonal and weather conditions, and different at types of waters.
Of course it is not vital to know, or understand these things to catch carp. But only the most exceptional outstanding anglers catch big carp consistently, using a normal number of fishing hours to achieve this. Compared to the ‘average’ majority, who are usually those having taken up carp fishing in the last 5 to 15 years or so and often to struggle to maintain big fish catches consistency all year round unlike much more experienced and ‘bait wise’ anglers.
So I feel it is important to help explain how to become more satisfied and consistent in your carp fishing, because these days it can be a large sacrifice, both in time and money, to pursue this sport. I believe, especially newer carp anglers, need impartial guidance when it comes to the importance of bait (often a complete afterthought!), when frequently thousands of pounds have been spent on carp fishing tackle!
An introduction to the boilie ingredients: Boilies are usually made using dry mixture ingredients of either 500 grammes or 1 pound. Using a combination of natural and synthetic materials, bait may be bound together usually with eggs, to form dough balls or shapes. The most effective size and dimensions vary depending upon your fishing situation, and could be 8 to 30 millimeters plus. (Never underestimate how fish preferences alter over time and even at different times during a session!)
It pays to make different sizes, shapes, and densities boilies: this helps take away a ‘danger’ reference point, i.e., it stops the fish recognizing it and fools the carp into eating the hook bait with the hook (which is the point, isn’t it?!)
Boilies have conventionally been and are often labeled in terms of the food group which forms the majority percentage of the bait, i.e.:
Milk protein (whole milk and it’s derivatives)
Carrier carbohydrate (soya flour / semolina)
Bird foods (seed mixes, rearing foods and extracts, etc)
Fishmeal (ground trout pellets, oily fish meals, crustacean meals, seafood extracts, etc)
Meat meals (beef, poultry, pork flakes, hydrolyzed feather meal, etc)
And so on…
Of course, these labels are misleading to some folks these days because baits have become more complex. The benefits of mixing the nutrients of different food groups in the same bait mix, means there may be no single food group in any given bait!
So how do you choose which ingredients to use, which ratios of these to use and why? The first step is commonly practicality; can you put these things together into a dough or paste, to produce a boilie mix that will bind together and roll well? To produce a boilie from various ingredients without instructions on ratios of each ingredient takes some preliminary testing. So it is wise to start by using one large hen’s egg (or similar), mixed with a small amount of any liquid ingredients, to confirm that your test dry ingredients when mixed actually bind and roll well into balls to make boiled baits. If not, add more egg, a small amount of vegetable oil or ‘binding material’.
Ideally start by putting the carp’s dietary needs first when making bait, and begin with the bulk ‘whole protein food’ content of ingredients at 25 % to 50 % of your preliminary 100 % dry mixture. Such examples used could be combinations of some of the following: caseins, lactalbumin, fish meals, meat meals, whey protein.
Usually you will require a binding material to hold the protein food together in the bait. This may require using dry binding ingredients like semolina, wheat gluten, wheat flour, soya flour etc for up to 50 % of the mix, necessary for many types of coarse bird food meals, shellfish meals, meat and fish meals. Different bait materials will alter this approximate ratio, but use the ratio that rolls first! and increase the protein content from there (Using eggs / egg powder to bind your bait, adds a great nutritional added profile as a complete protein food.)
Examples of binders:
Hen’s eggs
Egg powder
Whey gel
Bread crumbs
Full fat ‘yellow’ semolina
Maize meal
Corn starch
Potato starch
White ground rice flour
Wheat flour
Wheat gluten
Potato gluten
Full fat soya flour
Ground seeds
Ground ‘Sluis CLO’
Ground ‘EMP’
Ground ‘CeDe’
Ground ‘Red band’ pigeon seed mix
Beef gelatin based binding products
Some of the most effective attraction of your bait comes from the water soluble fraction of particular ingredients used. Ingredients with this characteristic content could constitute 10 % up to 30 % of the mix. Making a resilient practical boilie mix may require the addition or reduction of only one ingredient. Some of the best baits you will ever discover are made by this trial and error process. The solubility of ingredients is especially recommended if an ingredient has high protein value, such as sodium and calcium caseinates, calf milk replacers, whole milk powder, yeast powder, hydrolyzed fish and shellfish proteins etc...
Some are used at much lower levels, e.g. 0.2 % to 6 % ; e.g., hydrolyzed fish protein, hydrolyzed spirulina extract, squid extract, anchovy extract, green crab / lobster / scallop / shrimp / oyster / baby clam extracts, green lip mussel extract etc. These are also effective as most are extremely quickly and efficiently digested with immediate benefits that the carp can feel.
I prefer to fresh freeze baits, or ‘air dry’ them naturally, or preserve them in a flavour / amino acid / supplement compound, rather than using a chemical preservative in the bait like ascorbic acid.
Carp require oils (essential fatty acids) but only in small amounts e.g., up to 5 % of your total dry mix. Oily fish meals and shellfish meals are already rich in these, as are flax seed, hemp seed, sesame seeds, salmon oil, cod liver oil, crustacean oil, etc. To meet minimum carp dietary requirements try adding perhaps around 1 milliliter to 3 milliliters of a good quality nutritional oil per egg, (maximum,) depending on oil level in the dry mix.
At times of year when water temperatures drop below 55 Fahrenheit / 13 Degrees Celsius, it’s sensible to drop the oil levels used or use emulsified oil. It also pays to reduce some of your ‘whole protein food’ content and substitute it with e.g., 3 ounces of wheat germ; this is a proven method of improving the biological conversion of your bait inside the carp by making your bait more ‘carp digestible’
Carp love to crunch food and in doing so send out all kinds of feeding signals to other carp, allowing attractive food particles to pass out of the gills.
Nutritional ingredients can be used for this effect, e.g. bird foods – ‘Robin Red’, ‘Red Factor’,‘Nectarblend’, Ground ‘Red Band’ pigeon food, prepared ground mixed nuts and seeds; prepared tiger nuts and hempseed, millet, egg - biscuit myna - bird rearing food, niger seeds, ‘RRR’, ground birdseeds ‘Ce De’, ‘PTX’, ground insects, dried larvae, coarse kelp meal etc.
Also used are crushed oyster shell and eggshell. These also allow bait to release attractors faster, putting more out to attract carp quicker and more effectively, especially in lower water temperatures. They also help the fish to eat more bait by helping them pass it through their systems faster.
Test each individually because their properties vary. Use, e.g., 0.5 ounces per pound for shell through to e.g., 2 ounces per pound of course kelp meal, to e.g., 3 ounces per pound of ‘Robin Red’, ground birdseed e.g., 6 ounces per pound, up to 8 ounces per pound of ‘Nectar Blend’.
Here are some examples of recognized ‘nutritional’ bird food ingredients:
‘PTX’
‘Robin Red’
‘Red Factor’
‘Nectar Blend’
‘RRR’ Spanish peppers
‘Prosecto Insectivorous’
‘Sluis’ CLO
‘Sluis’Universal
‘Sluis’ Mynhah bird food
‘CeDe’
‘EMP’
‘Red Venom’ carophyll red liquid pigment attractor (http:/www.ccmoore.com)
Other ingredients are used to change resilience, texture, attractor leak-off, e.g., milk powders, whole milk, ‘Vitamealo’ at, e.g., 4 ounces per pound), or in a very soluble bait to bind it ‘tighter’ e.g., whey gel at 3 ounces per pound, or make it harder, e.g. blood powder at e.g. 4 ounces per pound, egg albumin at e.g., 2 ounces per pound, whole egg powder at, e.g., 3 ounces per pound, or whey gel, e.g., 1 ounce per pound.
To avoid silt / to make baits more buoyant, include ingredients like sodium caseinate, e.g. 5 ounces per pound, or shrimp meal, e.g. 3 ounces per pound or krill meal at e.g., 3 ounces per pound.
Vitamins and minerals are great attractors too, being essential for carp health and growth. Many of the above extracts supply these, but they leach out of bait very fast. Adding black strap molasses, betaine hydrochloride to the mix and as liquid soak really help.
Other ingredients can be added in very low levels to enhance your bait, or give it an ‘extra special attractive note’ e.g., 1 teaspoon per pound, of powdered taste enhancer, sea salt, or sweeteners like sodium saccharin and fishing company proprietary brands liquid and powdered sweeteners with no ‘chemical back taste’.
When you mix new ingredients together always test your mixture first. Try using one egg as a binder, to see if you have your ratios right for practical binding and rolling purposes. Always prepare your wet ingredients first and add dry ingredients to the wet ones gradually as you become accustomed to the ingredients you’re using, this part will become simple!
You can refine your bait’s ‘nutritional profile’ content, attraction properties and additional practical physical properties, as you become more familiar with getting a practical bait together; that works right for you and catches carp consistently! (Big ones preferably!You will soon find it’s very easy to make all kinds of baits, and your secret bait armory will fill you with confidence and your photograph albums with big carp!
By Tim Richardson N.D.C.H. The ‘thinking man’s fishing author’ and bait guru.
Sunday, December 24, 2006
Tactics for Fly Fishing at Night
By Jonathan Bowler
Some people just don't take well to night fishing. They get disorientated, their casting begins to fall to pieces, and they may find they lose their sense of balance in the water. But for those that can deal with these problems, the rewards can be spectacular! I do a fair percentage of my fishing at night, possibly as much as half. Yes, its nice to be out in the sun, wandering up a small stream, but if you want to catch the BIG ones, then after dark is the time to go.
Equipment and Flies For a start, use a good stout leader, and shorter than you would use during the day. A 10lb tippet is not unreasonable, any less and you will risk losing the big fish. And there is no need for a leader any longer than perhaps 7-8 feet. Another advantage of this is that there is less likelyhood of getting your fly and leader tangled. Much of the best night fishing in the South Island tends to be in the lower reaches of the main rivers. There can be some huge sea-run trout entering these rivers, and they will tend to be most active during the hours of darkness. I feel that fly pattern is less important than size and the speed of the retrieve. So a few of the patterns to carry could be: Mrs Simpson, Rabbit fly (black) a Grey Ghost, and a Red Setter. Usually sizes between #2, and #4 will be enough.
Know Your Fishing Area If you are planning a trip out at night, it really does pay to have a good idea of the area that you will be fishing. Apart from the obvious safety aspects regarding water depth, currents etc, you want to be confident that you will be casting into good fish holding water. I have been caught out with this before - wasted time spent casting along what looked to be a good stretch, only to find out later that is was no more than ankle deep!
Effects Of The Moon This part of the article may be a little controversial! The common belief is that the more moon, the worse the fishing. And in general, trout dont like moonlight. They tend to avoid it. Fresh sea-run trout are a different matter. Moonlight has less of an effect with these fish, although the longer they are in the river, the more they start the avoid the moon.
Having said this, some of the best night fishing can be had with a full moon! You just have to be fishing the right places. I have sat down on the banks of the Opihi river during a full moon, and watched the trout feeding on sedge flies. The moon was rising behind the willow trees, casting a deep dark shadow over the pool.
The trout were all rising in the shadow, not a single one rising in the moonlight. And as the moon rose higher, the shadows shortened, and the fish moved with them.
Since that time, I have fished a full moon, with good success. I look for pools or runs with a good cover of willows that cast a decent shadow. So you have to fish from the correct side of the river - it's no good fishing with the moon at your back. And a clear night is actually better than an overcast night. Cloud cover will disperse the light, and you will lose the deep shadows that hold the fish.
One last word on night fishing. If you find you lose your timing when casting in the dark, then try slowing down your whole cast. A common fault is to begin the forward cast too quickly, when there are no visual cues available. Wait just that little bit longer for the line to straighten and load the rod. It's something worth working on, because the rewards can be fantastic. Give it a try - it may open up a whole new experience for you!
And a final tip!
Heres a good tip for those of you that enjoy night fishing.
When using a torch to change flies, unhook a trout etc, it can ruin your night vision, and it may take 5-10 minutes for it to return. Try this -- before you turn off the torch, close your eyes. Then switch it off, and open them again.
You will be surprised how well you retain your night vision, compared to switching the torch off with open eyes. It really does make a difference.
Some people just don't take well to night fishing. They get disorientated, their casting begins to fall to pieces, and they may find they lose their sense of balance in the water. But for those that can deal with these problems, the rewards can be spectacular! I do a fair percentage of my fishing at night, possibly as much as half. Yes, its nice to be out in the sun, wandering up a small stream, but if you want to catch the BIG ones, then after dark is the time to go.
Equipment and Flies For a start, use a good stout leader, and shorter than you would use during the day. A 10lb tippet is not unreasonable, any less and you will risk losing the big fish. And there is no need for a leader any longer than perhaps 7-8 feet. Another advantage of this is that there is less likelyhood of getting your fly and leader tangled. Much of the best night fishing in the South Island tends to be in the lower reaches of the main rivers. There can be some huge sea-run trout entering these rivers, and they will tend to be most active during the hours of darkness. I feel that fly pattern is less important than size and the speed of the retrieve. So a few of the patterns to carry could be: Mrs Simpson, Rabbit fly (black) a Grey Ghost, and a Red Setter. Usually sizes between #2, and #4 will be enough.
Know Your Fishing Area If you are planning a trip out at night, it really does pay to have a good idea of the area that you will be fishing. Apart from the obvious safety aspects regarding water depth, currents etc, you want to be confident that you will be casting into good fish holding water. I have been caught out with this before - wasted time spent casting along what looked to be a good stretch, only to find out later that is was no more than ankle deep!
Effects Of The Moon This part of the article may be a little controversial! The common belief is that the more moon, the worse the fishing. And in general, trout dont like moonlight. They tend to avoid it. Fresh sea-run trout are a different matter. Moonlight has less of an effect with these fish, although the longer they are in the river, the more they start the avoid the moon.
Having said this, some of the best night fishing can be had with a full moon! You just have to be fishing the right places. I have sat down on the banks of the Opihi river during a full moon, and watched the trout feeding on sedge flies. The moon was rising behind the willow trees, casting a deep dark shadow over the pool.
The trout were all rising in the shadow, not a single one rising in the moonlight. And as the moon rose higher, the shadows shortened, and the fish moved with them.
Since that time, I have fished a full moon, with good success. I look for pools or runs with a good cover of willows that cast a decent shadow. So you have to fish from the correct side of the river - it's no good fishing with the moon at your back. And a clear night is actually better than an overcast night. Cloud cover will disperse the light, and you will lose the deep shadows that hold the fish.
One last word on night fishing. If you find you lose your timing when casting in the dark, then try slowing down your whole cast. A common fault is to begin the forward cast too quickly, when there are no visual cues available. Wait just that little bit longer for the line to straighten and load the rod. It's something worth working on, because the rewards can be fantastic. Give it a try - it may open up a whole new experience for you!
And a final tip!
Heres a good tip for those of you that enjoy night fishing.
When using a torch to change flies, unhook a trout etc, it can ruin your night vision, and it may take 5-10 minutes for it to return. Try this -- before you turn off the torch, close your eyes. Then switch it off, and open them again.
You will be surprised how well you retain your night vision, compared to switching the torch off with open eyes. It really does make a difference.
Friday, December 22, 2006
Visitors: Some Handy Pointers for Fishing in Alaska
By Deon Plessis
If Your dream has always been to take a fishing trip to Alaska and the day dawns when it's finally been realized you can rightfully allow the excitement to surge. Taking a fishing trip to Alaska is like a dream come true for most anglers.
You've hired the services of a guide and he leads you deep into the wilderness to a gurgling mountain stream that runs off of a glacier. The water is crystal clear and freezing cold. You set down your gear, bait your hook, cast and quietly converse with the guide. Suddenly, something hits your bait hard. You set the hook and the fight is on. You're glad that the guide is along. He coached you in the type of line and weights to use. You finally land your catch and the guide weighs it on the portable scales that he carries in his backpack. You've landed the biggest fish of your life, a 35 pound King salmon.
There are hundreds of places to fish in Alaska. The southeast region of Alaska, also known as the panhandle, has a wide range of places in which to fish, depending on the species you are targeting. There are hundreds of mountain streams that run off of glaciers. There are deep fjords in abundance. Winters are not as cold here as in other parts of Alaska, because this area is warmed by the ocean. Summers are cool and very moist and this is the time when halibut move into the waters near the shore. Salmon migrate to this region by the hundreds to spawn and there are a variety of trout species to be fished.
The fishing is great in the western and Arctic regions of Alaska, as well as in the interior. These are the areas where the Yukon and Kuskokwim Rivers drain. Here you will catch burbot, char, graylings, pike, trout, sheefish and more, for fish are in great abundance.
A popular Alaskan fishing destination is the area known as the Lower Cook Inlet. Here you will catch Dolly Varden, salmon species, and trout in the rivers and streams. Halibut and salmon can be fished off the coast. If you enjoy digging for clams, dig the area's beaches for a good feed.
King salmon, also known as Chinook, are common in Alaska, and they often weigh up to 50 pounds. Giant halibut are also found in Alaska's waters, as are northern pike, graylings, Pollock, shiner perch, sole, rockfish, sturgeon, steelhead, shad, herring, lake chub, Alaskan blackfish, smelt, trout, Arctic char, Arctic cod, walleye, Arctic flounder, crabs and shrimp.
South Central Alaska is the area of Alaska that has the highest population and there are great fishing opportunities available. From Bristol Bay to the Copper River, there are watersheds and coastal waters that have an abundance of fish. Anglers can fish the coastal waters for halibut and ocean fish species. Watersheds are abundant in species as burbot, Dolly Varden, grayling, pike, trout and whitefish. It is essential to pack the right fishing gear fro your fishing trip to Alaska. You will need a variety of fishing gear and you need to make sure you include (at least) the following:
- freshwater fishing rods
- saltwater fishing rods
- bait casting rod
- twice as much tackle as you believe you'll need
- flies, weights, lures, a variety of fishing line
- a net and nylon cord
- one water bottle or canteen
- a fillet knife
- nail clippers
- needle nose pliers
- waders and wading boots
- a flashlight (and extra batteries)
- maps and a compass (and UPS if venturing out to more remote places)
- a couple of tire patch kits
- first aid kit, flares and survival rations if you plan to camp in wilderness areas
Don't forget the appropriate clothing and don't compromise with cheap stuff- it can make the difference between an enjoyable fishing trip and a nightmare. You will need to bring along a fishing vest, warm clothes, including socks, a jacket, a winter coat, fleece clothes, rain gear, sunglasses, a fishing hat and gloves, hiking boots, bug repellent, a couple of lighters and matches, sunscreen, a floatation device, a backpack, Tylenol, any personal medications you will need, a cell or satellite phone,pepper spray for bear protection, a fishing license (don't forget your fishing lisence), a small amount of cash, traveler's checks, a credit card, anti bacterial hand cleaner, a camera and lots of film, or a digital camera. Most of the bigger towns offer facilities for you to download your digital images onto CD or even to print from your memory cards.
The question is often asked by more inexperienced fisherman to Alaska as to what bait to use. Live bait for Alaskan fishing includes nightcrawlers, crustaceans, prawns, live bait systems, cut bait, shrimp, oysters, live fish species, crayfish, lugworms, razor fish and herring. Frozen baits consist of mackerel, herring, squid, sardines and octopus. Artificial bait includes lures, wet and dry flies, spinners, streamers, spoons and Mepps. Egg sacs work great for attracting fish species. The best rule of thumb is to use the natural bait that the targeted fish species prey upon. Also keep in mind that you need to match bait to the hook size and equipment that you are using.
The best advice you can get for Alaskan fishing, is from one of the many experienced local anglers. If you don't know, or can't find such an angler, seek out an experienced Alaskan fishing guide. These can be found easily online and the resources on this site will serve as a handy guide. Beware of hiring a guide that you have never met. Make sure you get reliable references especially if you have to pay in advance and especially if you are planning on using your guide for an extensive period of time. Email the guide service and ask how long they've been in business, if they are licensed, if they carry insurance and if they are members of the Better Business Bureau, or something equivalent. Ask them for the names and phone numbers of references.
The value of a good guide is priceless. If you hire a good guide, the price you pay for these services will be well rewarded. You will land a beauty and have the memories forever.
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Nassau Fishing Guides
By Sarah Freeland
When traveling to Nassau, many expect to experience sports fishing adventures. Various fishing boat trips and charter fishing boat trips are available for fishing enthusiasts to experience. Nassau is known for its authentic fishing experience. While on vacation, many individuals like to embark on this exciting water adventure.
Nassau houses a large variety of fish from white marlin to sailfish and yellow fin and skipjack tuna. Who cares if you’re novice! Many experts are available on board to help guide you on the correct techniques to catch the biggest fish of your life. They will provide valuable information on which lure to use and how to cast a reel in a specific way to catch certain fish.
Nassau hotels and lodging can be affordable for any family vacation. Whether you like a hotel or a resort, many accommodations are available to fit the needs of every family. By reading through various reviews, you can find cheap lodging alternatives. Discount room rates are available. These accommodations make Nassau a great vacation for everyone.
With fishing comes a large assortment of sport fishing equipment to use while enjoying the sport. With various types of fishing available including deep-sea fishing you experience in Nassau, different equipment is needed for each excursion. Fishing supplies are available for the young and old. We know that having the right equipment makes one more confident in their performance in the water.
From fishing boats to fishing rods, sport fishing equipment encompasses a wide range of selection to fit the needs of every fisherperson. Fishing tackle is especially important and come in a large selection. Many fisher persons enjoy collecting a variety of tackle to put within their tackle box to brag to others about how many they have. For children, fishing tackle comes another collection of theirs that they treasure. These include various lures.
Saltwater fishing and fly fishing each require specific equipment. From fishing line and rods to lures and tackle, fishing supplies are a large market. If you’re new to the sport, there are a variety of guides and professionals to help you choose the right items for your experience. Jump right in, take a chance with fishing. You won’t regret it!!
When traveling to Nassau, many expect to experience sports fishing adventures. Various fishing boat trips and charter fishing boat trips are available for fishing enthusiasts to experience. Nassau is known for its authentic fishing experience. While on vacation, many individuals like to embark on this exciting water adventure.
Nassau houses a large variety of fish from white marlin to sailfish and yellow fin and skipjack tuna. Who cares if you’re novice! Many experts are available on board to help guide you on the correct techniques to catch the biggest fish of your life. They will provide valuable information on which lure to use and how to cast a reel in a specific way to catch certain fish.
Nassau hotels and lodging can be affordable for any family vacation. Whether you like a hotel or a resort, many accommodations are available to fit the needs of every family. By reading through various reviews, you can find cheap lodging alternatives. Discount room rates are available. These accommodations make Nassau a great vacation for everyone.
With fishing comes a large assortment of sport fishing equipment to use while enjoying the sport. With various types of fishing available including deep-sea fishing you experience in Nassau, different equipment is needed for each excursion. Fishing supplies are available for the young and old. We know that having the right equipment makes one more confident in their performance in the water.
From fishing boats to fishing rods, sport fishing equipment encompasses a wide range of selection to fit the needs of every fisherperson. Fishing tackle is especially important and come in a large selection. Many fisher persons enjoy collecting a variety of tackle to put within their tackle box to brag to others about how many they have. For children, fishing tackle comes another collection of theirs that they treasure. These include various lures.
Saltwater fishing and fly fishing each require specific equipment. From fishing line and rods to lures and tackle, fishing supplies are a large market. If you’re new to the sport, there are a variety of guides and professionals to help you choose the right items for your experience. Jump right in, take a chance with fishing. You won’t regret it!!
Sunday, December 3, 2006
Spearfishing Equipment
By Sarah Freeland
Are you a certified scuba diver? Are you planning to fish in waters where spearfishing is permitted? It offers a new dimension to your fishing experience! In terms of spearfishing equipment, you’ll need a snorkel, fins, mask, and a regulator. You’ll choose your spear gun and polespears specifically for what you want to accomplish on your fishing trip.
If you’re going out between fall and spring, then a wetsuit is a good idea. When the air temperature drops to 76 degrees, and the water temperature to 79, consider a shorty wetsuit; and when the air temperature drops to 72 degrees, and the water temperature below 75, then consider a full 6 mm wetsuit.
In the right hands, polespears can be highly effective. Even though they’re usually used for small reef fish, you can turn them just as handily to halibut, seephead, or striped bass—just about any medium to large fish. Polespears are frequently made of fiberglass, aluminum, or carbon compounds for lightness and flex. They come in different sizes for different uses, usually varying between 5 and 8 feet in length. Want to use a polespear effectively? Relax, and stay still in the water. Hold your breath until the fish comes in range.
Are you thinking of spearfishing for striped bass? This is one of New England’s most sought-after fish. You’ll need a mask and snorkel, as well as your gun. Because of the low visibility—even at shallow depths—in the waters that striped bass prefer, choose a reduced volume bask with a large field of vision and non-tinted glass. Choose a simple J type snorkel, and don’t worry about special devices. Choose a 75-cm. light gun, so that you can change power readily for different prey. If you’re out after big fish, then bring some spare shafts. You really don’t need a reel, but it might be nice to have if you’re after big fish or dive deep for security.
Are you a certified scuba diver? Are you planning to fish in waters where spearfishing is permitted? It offers a new dimension to your fishing experience! In terms of spearfishing equipment, you’ll need a snorkel, fins, mask, and a regulator. You’ll choose your spear gun and polespears specifically for what you want to accomplish on your fishing trip.
If you’re going out between fall and spring, then a wetsuit is a good idea. When the air temperature drops to 76 degrees, and the water temperature to 79, consider a shorty wetsuit; and when the air temperature drops to 72 degrees, and the water temperature below 75, then consider a full 6 mm wetsuit.
In the right hands, polespears can be highly effective. Even though they’re usually used for small reef fish, you can turn them just as handily to halibut, seephead, or striped bass—just about any medium to large fish. Polespears are frequently made of fiberglass, aluminum, or carbon compounds for lightness and flex. They come in different sizes for different uses, usually varying between 5 and 8 feet in length. Want to use a polespear effectively? Relax, and stay still in the water. Hold your breath until the fish comes in range.
Are you thinking of spearfishing for striped bass? This is one of New England’s most sought-after fish. You’ll need a mask and snorkel, as well as your gun. Because of the low visibility—even at shallow depths—in the waters that striped bass prefer, choose a reduced volume bask with a large field of vision and non-tinted glass. Choose a simple J type snorkel, and don’t worry about special devices. Choose a 75-cm. light gun, so that you can change power readily for different prey. If you’re out after big fish, then bring some spare shafts. You really don’t need a reel, but it might be nice to have if you’re after big fish or dive deep for security.
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